Beinn Ghlas and Ben Lawers

June’s heatwave called for some more Munros: Beinn Ghlas and Ben Lawers, both of which sit to the north of Loch Tay within Ben Lawers National Nature Reserve. We set off early, mindful of the temperatures forecast for later in the day, and reached the car park opposite the trailhead shortly after 08.00.

I’m someone that often falls into the trap of saving hikes for sunny days. Scotland’s weather is unpredictable at best, and sunshine was in short supply earlier in the year, so it wasn’t until June that we added another couple of Munros to the tally. I love hiking – but I also love a good view. And for me, this is one of those hikes that it’s 100% worth saving for a clear day. Here’s why:

A few hundred metres up the trail, looking south-east

We followed the well-maintained path, which ascends gently over the slopes of Beinn Ghlas, stopping every so often to admire the views to the south (above).

Looking towards Beinn Ghlas

Beinn Ghlas

On a clear day, you can see for miles across the hills – some heather-clad, others with pockets of pine forest – to the small village of Killin which hugs the western tip of Loch Tay (right of centre), and to the Trossachs beyond (the peaks to the right in the photo below).

Summit views to the south

I’ve still not figured out why some Scottish peaks are Beinns while others are Bens. We stopped for a snack at the top of Beinn Ghlas, and then continued along the path to Ben Lawers.

Onwards to Ben Lawers

Looking back to Beinn Ghlas

Whilst the views were spectacular, sharing them with thousands of Scotland’s pesky midges was… not so spectacular. Needless to say, we didn’t linger at the summit for long.

Looking west, over Lochan nan Cat (left), Lochan nan Uan (the tiny one in the centre) and Loch Tay (right)

Looking north-west across An Stùc (centre) to Glen Lyon (background, right)

Looking south across Loch Tay at the trig point

We retraced our footsteps to the fork in the path. This time, instead of going over the summit of Beinn Ghlas, we took the path that ran along the north slope of Beinn Ghlas. If there’s a way to avoid an out-and-back (even if only slightly) that doesn’t involve an enormous detour, I’ll find it!

Between Beinn Ghlas and Meall Corranaich

This path roughly followed Burn of Edramucky downstream, and we had it all to ourselves. When we rejoined the main path a couple of kilometres or so later, there were a number of walkers just starting out. I was melting in the heat by this point, so I was glad we’d had an early start.

Just before we rejoined the main trail; Burn of Edramucky is to the right

Up next: Costa Rica. (I’ve got 1,000+ photos to sort through from our honeymoon, and whittling them down to a more manageable number is not an easy task!)

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

• Parking | There’s a car park just across from the trailhead. If you’re approaching from Killin (as we were), follow the A827 along the northern edge of Loch Tay. Take the turning on your left for Bridge of Balgie (also marked National Trust for Scotland: Ben Lawers). After a couple of miles on single-track road, the car park will be on your left. If it’s full, there are a couple of other (smaller) car parks further up the road – but you’ll need to factor in adding a few more kilometres to the total distance.
• Maps and guides | Although this is a straightforward route, the weather can change quickly in the hills (I’ve experienced all four seasons in one day on more than one occasion here in Scotland!). Pack a copy of OS Explorer OL48 – and know how to use it.
• Distance | 12.2km/ 7.6 miles; 901m of elevation gain.
• Misc. | There are a handful of cafés and a pub in Killin (along with free car parking) for those essential post-hike refreshments.